My Shetland Wool Week – Part 3

Logo SWW SWW is also  the possibility of taking part in workshops with specialists.

 

And a unique opportunity to learn from the techniques or to improve.

The hour of the first workshop and the first challenge sounded : “Steeking with Barbara Cheyne”: 3:00 duration. Here am I, confronted with a technique which I have desire for testing for a long time but that I apprehend : to cut a knit!

This technique is traditionnally used in knitting of the  north countries whose models are in jacquard :  sweaters are knitted in round from bottom to the neck, which makes it possible to always work on the right side  and thus to follow the chart much more easily. The openings for the armsholes are made after with cissors.

This opening is practised in additional stitches not being part of the model, but added at the right place, these stitches are called steeks. Before cutting, the knitting is secure by two seams on these steeks  and we cut  between the two. And guaranteed, if it is well done, that does not move !

OK, lets go. We are three pupils, two english-speaking and me, that starts well… But Barbara Cheyne is charming and very pedagogue. We do not have obviously time to knit a sweater jacquart in 3:00, therefore it makes us knit a small round in jacquard, a kind of sweater for small doll !  We add steeks in the medium after the coasts.
After the chart is finished , we bind off.  Here we are with a small tube in jacquard…

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The consolidation of the steeks is done with the hook – and not with the sewing machine – as that was done traditionally in the Shetland, on both sides of medium of the steeks. With the hook, we pick up a loom in every steek and make stitches : that gives two columns of stitches on both sides of center. Knitting is secure.

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And then,  we cut ! And it works. My knitting is secure, Alleluia, thank you Barbara !

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It does not remain any more that to fold up the edge inside and to fix by an invisible seam towards the interior.

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Sorry, on the photos, it is not very explicit but I did not have time to do many photos during the workshop, knitting  is work ! But, I understood the technique.

I think that I will rather use the double seam with the sewing machine, but I’ll try with a sample before. I have to involve myself  and be careful because  it is an innovation for me.
This technique is as used for the cardigans, which are cut not only for the armholes but also for the front on all the height. That gives – if it is well done – beautiful edges !

No respite, the following day, it is my second workshop :” Beyong basic brioche” with Nancy Marchant

Nancy Marchant is the specialist in the brioche stitch, which is called in French “côtes anglaises”. She wrote several books on this technique and her patterns in 2 colors brioch stitch are splendid.

I know this technique, I already knitted Meandering shawl of Stephen West (another specialist of brioche stitch) in two colors, but I am not yet well familiarized with this technique, in particular for the increases and the decreases . And when the opportunity of a workshop with the “queen of brioche stitch” comes, it should not be missed !

We are about 20 people almost all english-speaking, It doesn’t matter. The workshop is brilliant. Nancy Marchant is a very nice person and explain us the technique with many gestures and details.

She passes around the table to help, to advise, and shows us some of its models, they are splendid!

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We start to knit a sample in basic brioche 2 colors with increases and decreases. I have made a good choice for my yarns : one dark color, Brooklyn Tweed Arbor color “Black fig” and a light color, Bien-Aimée color “Driftwood Graffiti”.

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Here is the beginning of my sample.

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After few raws right in brioche stitch, we choose a chart and we knit increases and decreases which incline the 2 colors towards the left or the righthand side to create pretty undulations.

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At the end of the workshop, Nancy Marchant dedicates her book “Leafy brioche” for my colleague Carole. Thanks Nancy !

This workshop was very nice. I speak to you about the next in my following post. But sorry, I have to go. I have a cardigan in brioche stitch waiting for me on the needles…